Olive Heritage

A History as Old as Western Civilization

The wild olive (oleaster) grows in most countries of the Mediterranean, even in Southeast Asia and other areas. It is an unimpressive straggly plant, with little resemblance to the olive tree, Olea europaea, which may have been first cultivated as early as five thousand years ago in Crete and Syria.

New World Transplant

The olive tree flourished in Spain, Tunisia, Morocco and Mediterranean countries for thousands of years, but it was not until the mid-sixteenth century that there is a record of cuttings being carried to Peru by the Spaniards. In the 1700s Franciscan monks brought the olive to Mexico and then north to California by way of the missions. The first cuttings were planted in 1769 at the San Diego Mission. However, it was not until the late 1800s that commercial cultivation began in warm, sunny valleys of Central and Northern California.

An Industry Founded by a Housewife

In the 1800s many acres of olive trees were planted because of the demand for olive oil. Freda Ehmann and her son, Edwin, purchased such an orchard in the Oroville area of Northern California around that time. Soon, with the trees barely producing and oil prices dropping, only their tough German heritage convinced them to continue to search for other outlets for their fruit. Consulting with a Berkeley professor on processing methods, Freda began experimenting with 280 gallons of olives in barrels on the back porch of her home. The black olives she produced were a decided success and the California Ripe Olive Industry was born. Freda Ehmann's grandson would later write: "Where science and chemical exactness had failed, the experience and care of a skillful and conscientious housewife succeeded."

The California Olive Industry Today

Today, the California Olive Industry consists of two canneries which process the 86,000 to 160,000 tons of olives produced by approximately 35,000 acres growing in the warm inland valleys of the state. There are about 1,200 growers with orchards varying from as few as five acres to multicrop farms with over 1,000 acres.Tulare County in the central San Joaquin Valley has over 54 percent of olive acreage, while Kings, Kern, Fresno and Madera counties account for about 12 percent. In the Sacramento Valley to the north, Glenn, Tehama and Butte counties represent about 32 percent of the acreage.

The California Varieties

California has four main varieties — Mission, originally cultivated by the Franciscan missions; Manzanillo, which represents most of the acreage; Sevillano and Ascolano, which produce the larger sizes. Approximately 70-80 percent of ripe olives consumed in the United States come from California. Over 90 percent of the California crop is processed as black ripe olives. The remaining olives are processed into various specialty styles or crushed for olive oil.

Cultivation and Harvest

The mild winters and hot dry summers of California's great valley are reminiscent of the olive's native Mediterranean home. The olive tree tends to be alternate bearing, producing a large crop one year with a smaller crop the next. Modern cultivation practices of pruning and thinning have helped to minimize this characteristic to some extent. The trees bloom in May with delicate, cream-colored flowers. By mid-September, the harvest begins. Olives destined for the canneries are picked when they are still green, but beginning to show a little color. Most olive orchards are picked by hand except for a few larger acreages, which are mechanically harvested by machines that shake the trees and catch falling olives in a frame. Dumped into bins, the olives are taken to the cannery where they are sorted, graded and put in large tanks filled with storage solution.

Curing

Olives, as they come from the tree, are too bitter to eat without some kind of curing. There are many different methods used around the world. In California, most olives become California black ripe olives. A few become specialty olives.

Black Ripe Olives

These olives are processed in a lye curing solution that leaches the bitterness out. California Ripe Olives have a firm texture and smooth, mellow taste. Once curing is complete, a series of cold water rinses removes every trace of curing solution. During the curing process, which takes several days, a flow of air bubbling through the olives produces the natural, rich dark color. A trace of organic iron salt (ferrous gluconate) is added to act as a color fixer so the olives will have less tendency to fade after the cans are stored.

Canning is the final step. Ripe olives are canned in a mild salt brine solution and, because they are a low-acid product, are heat sterilized under strict California State health rules.

To ensure consistent quality, color, flavor and texture all canned Ripe Olives packaged in California are inspected by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. California Ripe Olives come whole, pitted, sliced, chopped or wedged. They are readily available year round in the grocery store.

Care and Storage

California Ripe Olives are packed in a light brine solution, not only to bring out the flavor of the fruit, but also to protect them in transportation. The recommended shelf life for unopened cans is 36-48 months. They may be stored at room temperature.

Once opened, store unused California Ripe Olives in their original brine in the open can and cover with plastic wrap to allow oxygen to permeate. Do not store California Ripe Olives in an airtight container as harmful toxins may develop. If the original brine has been discarded, replace with a solution of one cup of water and 1/2 teaspoon salt in order to keep the olives wet and free from external odors. Partially used cans of California Ripe Olives may be held in the refrigerator for up to ten days.